Climbing Belay Devices Demystified: Which One Should You Use?

Introduction
Belaying is one of the most important safety skills in climbing, and your belay device plays a key role in it. With so many options out there, choosing the right device can feel confusing — especially if you’re just starting out.

In this guide, we’ll break down the main types of belay devices, their pros and cons, and what to consider before buying. By the end, you’ll know which one fits your climbing style and where to get expert advice.

What Is a Belay Device?

A belay device is a mechanical tool that helps manage the rope while belaying. It provides friction to catch a climber’s fall, control lowering, and generally make belaying safer and smoother.

While all belay devices serve the same purpose, they come in different designs that suit different climbing styles.

Tube-Style Belay Devices

Examples: Black Diamond ATC, Petzl Reverso.

• Features: Lightweight, simple, and affordable.

• Pros: Versatile — works for belaying, rappelling, and even handling two ropes. Great for trad and multipitch climbing.

• Cons: No assisted braking. They require constant attention and solid belay technique.

• Best for: Beginners learning belay fundamentals, trad climbers, and multipitch routes.

Assisted-Braking Devices

Examples: Petzl GriGri, Edelrid Jul2, Mammut Smart.

• Features: Use camming or mechanical parts to help stop the rope in case of a fall.

• Pros: Offer extra security, reduce strain on the belayer, and are excellent for sport climbing and projecting routes.

• Cons: More expensive, heavier, and sometimes less smooth with very thin ropes.

• Best for: Sport climbers, gym climbers, and anyone belaying a partner who often hangs or projects.

• Important note: Some gyms require belayers to use assisted-braking devices. Always check your gym’s rules before bringing your own gear.

The Petzl GriGri — a trusted assisted-braking device for sport climbers. Available now at Boulder Planet Showroom.

Key Considerations When Choosing a Belay Device

Before making your choice, think about:

• Climbing style — Indoor sport, outdoor trad, or multipitch all have different needs.

• Rope type and diameter — Make sure your device matches your rope size.

• Budget and weight — Simpler tube devices cost less, while assisted-braking devices offer more safety features at a higher price.

• Personal preference — The right device is one you feel confident and comfortable using.

Conclusion
There isn’t a single “best” belay device — only the best one for your climbing style and needs. Tube-style devices are simple and versatile, while assisted-braking devices add an extra layer of security, especially in gyms or sport climbing.

Want to see which belay device is right for you? Visit Boulder Planet Showroom to check out different options in person and get recommendations from our staff.