How to Build Finger Strength for Climbing Success

How to Build Finger Strength for Climbing

Climbing is a full-body workout. As we start climbing more difficult routes or problems, finger strength becomes essential. Fingerboards are a powerful training tool, helping us gain the strength needed to hold on to even the tiniest holds on the wall and to execute difficult moves. In this article, we discuss simple tips for using fingerboards to build finger strength.

Why Use a Fingerboard for Finger Strength Training?

Fingerboards let you train when you are off the wall. Some days we might not have time to go to the gym for a climbing session, which could take anywhere from 1 hour to an entire day. In contrast, a training session on a fingerboard can be as quick as 10 minutes. You can make it part of your morning or evening routines.  

Fingerboards help you to focus specifically on finger strength. If you are a beginner, climbing regularly is the key to improving climbing ability. However, after some time (maybe when you are taking on V6 boulder problems or 6c routes) you might find that you are limited by your finger strength. This is when you can turn to fingerboards to break through your limits effectively.

Essential Fingerboard Exercises for Climbing

1. Dead Hangs
• How-to: Choose a comfortable hold on a fingerboard. Hang from the board with straight arms and shoulders engaged, holding for 5-10 seconds. Rest for a few minutes between sets and repeat 3-5 times.
• Benefits: Dead hangs improve finger strength, allowing you to hold on to smaller holds like crimps for longer.
2. Offset Hangs
• How-to: Place one hand on a larger hold and the other on a smaller hold. Hang for 5-10 seconds, switch sides, and repeat. Do 2-3 sets on each side.
• Benefits: For many climbers, one hand may be stronger than the other. Offset hangs help to balance finger strength between hands. Also, offset hangs simulate real climbing conditions where hold sizes may vary.
3. Repeaters
• How-to: Select a moderately challenging hold and hang for 7 seconds, then rest for 3 seconds. Repeat this hang-rest cycle 6-8 times for one set. Start with easier holds if you’re new to fingerboarding, and progress to the smaller holds you get stronger.
• Benefits: Repeaters build endurance and improve finger strength under sustained tension, essential for longer climbs and overhangs.

 Tips for Safe Fingerboard Training

• Warm-Up First: Warm up your hands, wrists, and shoulders with some dynamic stretches.
• Progress Gradually: Start with easier holds and work your way up, especially if you’re new to fingerboards.
• Prioritize Recovery: Rest between sets and avoid fingerboard training on consecutive days to prevent strain.

 The Beastmaker 1000 and 2000, available at Boulder Planet, offer a wide variety of hold types and sizes to train your fingers. The wooden material is gentle on the skin and the holds have been radiused to avoid tweaking any fingers. 

 Choosing Between the Beastmaker 1000 and 2000

• Beastmaker 1000: Ideal for beginners or intermediate climbers, this board includes larger, more forgiving holds and is a great introduction to finger strength training.
• Beastmaker 2000: Designed for advanced climbers, this board includes a variety of challenging holds like slopers and small crimps, perfect for refining strength and precision.

The Beastmaker 1000 and 2000 boards are available at Boulder Planet’s showroom, so feel free to stop by and check them out in person! These fingerboards will become essential tools in your climbing journey, helping you build the finger strength needed for climbing success.