Understanding Climbing Shoes: Fit, Shape, and Rubber

Climbing shoes are one of the most important pieces of gear for any climber. The right pair can make a significant difference in performance, comfort, and overall climbing experience. However, with so many options available, choosing the right shoes can be overwhelming. Let us break down the three key aspects of climbing shoes: fit, shape, and rubber.

Fit: Finding the Right Size

A well-fitted climbing shoe provides the best balance between comfort and performance. Here are some key factors to consider:

• Snug, Not Painful: Climbing shoes should be tight but not unbearably painful. A snug fit helps with precision and control while preventing excessive foot movement inside the shoe.
• No Dead Space: Your toes should be close to the front of the shoe without curling painfully. Any extra space can reduce sensitivity and affect performance.
• Closure System: Climbing shoes come with different closure types—lace-up, Velcro, or slip-on. Lace-ups offer the most adjustability, Velcro provides convenience, and slip-ons are often the most sensitive but less secure.
• Break-in Period: Some shoes stretch over time, especially those made with unlined leather. Consider this when selecting a size.

The Evolv Kira’s lace/Velcro closure system combines the precision of laces with the convenience of Velcro, ensuring a secure and adjustable fit for all-day climbing comfort.

Shape: Understanding the Profiles

Climbing shoes come in different shapes, each suited for different climbing styles:

• Neutral: Best for beginners and all-day comfort, neutral shoes have a flat profile. They provide excellent support and work well for long routes and crack climbing.
• Moderate: With a slightly downturned shape, moderate shoes offer a balance between comfort and performance. They are ideal for sport climbing and technical face climbing.
• Aggressive: Designed for steep and overhanging routes, aggressive shoes have a pronounced downturn. They maximize toe power and precision but may feel uncomfortable for extended use.

Choosing the right shape depends on your climbing style and comfort preference.

The Evolv Phantom features an aggressive downturned shape, designed for maximum power and precision on steep and overhanging terrain.

Rubber: Grip and Durability

The type of rubber on climbing shoes affects grip, durability, and performance. There are two main considerations:

• Soft Rubber: Provides excellent grip and sensitivity, making it ideal for smearing and overhanging routes. However, it wears down faster.
• Stiff Rubber: More durable and supportive, stiff rubber is great for edging and climbing long routes where foot support is crucial.

Different brands use proprietary rubber compounds, such as Vibram XS Grip, Vibram XS Edge, Stealth C4, or Trax SAS. Each offers a unique balance between grip and durability.

The generous coverage of soft Vibram XS Grip rubber around the soles, heels and toe patches of the So iLL Stay offers exceptional traction and sensitivity for precise footwork.

Choosing the Right Climbing Shoes

When selecting climbing shoes, consider your climbing style, comfort preference, and the terrain you frequent. Trying on multiple pairs and testing them on a climbing wall can help determine the best fit. Investing in the right pair of shoes can enhance your performance and keep you comfortable throughout your climbs.

By understanding fit, shape, and rubber, you’ll be well-equipped to choose climbing shoes that match your needs and climbing goals. If you're looking for expert advice and a great selection of climbing shoes, visit the Boulder Planet Showroom! Our team is ready to help you find the perfect pair for your climbing adventures.